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Saturday 29 December 2012

Days 176–179: Sydney

In which are amazed by how expensive everything is here.


Day 176 (arriving in Sydney)

We’d set the alarm for super early this morning so as not to miss sailing into Sydney. We’d been told that we’d be docking at around 6.30 am and that we’d be entering the harbour mouth approximately two hours before that. However, when we turned on the TV and tuned into the Bridge-Cam channel (forward facing webcam type setup) at about 5.30 am, there on the screen was a perfect shot of the famous opera house with the equally famous bridge behind it; we’d almost slept through the whole thing.

I threw on some clothes and rushed up on deck just as the ship was level with the mouth of Sydney Cove, with the opera house on the left (port side) and the bridge dead ahead. Soon tugs (and the ship’s bow thrusters) began to turn the ship so that she was lined up ready to reverse park into Circular Quay. She ended up moored port side (of course) totally dominating the quay with the harbour bridge in front and to the left, and the opera house to her right. The manoeuvre was really quite something to see and several people were standing on the quayside doing just that. Included in their number were friends of Adam and Corinne – who had been up since about four o’clock in the morning so as not to miss a thing – come to welcome these two new immigrants ‘home’.

Once safely berthed, Juli and I ate our last cruise breakfast and went with our hand luggage, to our assigned disembarkation station in the theatre, where we waited to be told which gangway to use to get off the ship, down to where our luggage was waiting for us. There couldn’t have been less fuss or formality; no one asked to look at our passports and no one was at all interested as we collected our bags from the pile waiting in the shed by the quayside. So it turned out that all that hard work scrubbing our tent to within an inch of its life plus any concerns we may have had about bringing wooden souvenirs into Australia were completely unnecessary. Ah well; don’t tell the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service, AQIS.

Our hotel was, thanks to Juli’s research and planning, only a short walk from the quayside and within the famous Rocks area. Even so, due to the heat of the day, by the time we got there with all our heavy bags – especially the one with all our new ‘cruise’ clothes – I for one was sweat-soaked and exhausted.

Despite the fact that we had arrived well before regular check-in time, the receptionist found us a really nice room with level access to and from the lift; lots of the rooms were up and down short flights of steps in the quirky old building. The room itself looked out directly onto an office block across a side street, so after dumping our bags, we went up to the hotel’s roof garden, from where we could see the harbour bridge and most of Circular Quay. Not the ship though, as that was behind the Sydney Museum of Contemporary Art, which was directly across the street from us.

After a shower and a change of clothes, we went for a stroll back down to the quay, where we wandered over to the opera house then back round and under the bridge to Walsh Bay on the other side of The Rocks. Originally warehouses, the quayside buildings have now been converted into up-scale apartments, bars and restaurants. Since it was about lunchtime, we found a not too up-scale cafe and had a drink and a sandwich to share: Sydney, or at least the posh / tourist-y bits is really expensive. Don’t think we’ll be eating like we did on the ship.

Our walk took us to the Sydney Observatory, which is set on hill just behind The Rocks. Built in 1858, it is Australia’s oldest observatory and was built not only to study the stars, but also for meteorology and to provide accurate time-keeping for Sydney’s post office and mariners. Every day at one o’clock a large metal ball is raised to the top of the poll on which it slides and is dropped at exactly 1.00 pm. Having said that, as luck would have it, we were there in plenty of time to see it fall and it didn’t. That may have been due to daylight saving, which they have at this time of year in New South Wales, but no one at the observatory on duty then could tell us. Hey ho. Nevertheless, we decided to book an evening tour for the next night, when (clouds permitting) we be given a tour of both the observatory and the night sky.

After a rest back at our hotel, we ventured out again in search of cheap food. No easy task in the area around the quay, but we did eventually find a Hungry Jacks, which is Australia’s equivalent of Burger King. [Apparently, when the franchise first came to Australia, the trademark Burger king was already registered by a restaurant in Adelaide.]

***

Today, after a good but early breakfast precipitated by a particularly noisy power-tool being started up in our vicinity at around 05:45, we walked up George Street to the railway station to book a ticket up to Brisbane and to enquire about long-term left luggage. We had hoped that we’d be able to leave our cruise and suvee bags at the hotel, with whom we’ll be staying again when we return to Sydney in March. Unfortunately, they just don’t have the room. Neither, we discovered, does the railway station have left luggage facilities, nor the coach station round the corner. They did, however, point us in the direction of a backpackers travel agent called Wanderers Travel who do, but for $100 dollars per month, per bag.

We didn’t have much luck with the train ticket either. We needed to get to Robina – a town an hour south of Brisbane, near to Juli’s Aunt Connie, from where she will collect us – but it seems the only way to get to there by train is either to get an overnight sleeper train up to Brisbane (arriving super early) followed by a suburban service back down to Robina, or a day time train half way up to a town called Cassino then take a bus the rest of the way, which we didn’t fancy so much. We seriously doubted the information we were getting from the ticket sales agent who was only able to advise on New South Wales trains (our journey was trans-state) so decided to book neither and do our own research back at the hotel.

Back at the hotel, we had a rest from the heat of the day before venturing out again for some food before our tour of the Observatory later that evening. We chose fish and chips from a busy stall on the quay side and took them to a park bench nearby. Unfortunately, it wasn’t long before we were mobbed by some very cheeky gulls, who literally grabbed the food from our fingers. After a minute or two of this, and at the suggestion of a park ranger, we made a tactical withdrawal to another bench away from the quay.

We got to the Observatory very early so sat on another bench nearby. From our vantage point at the top of Observatory Hill, we watched ships in the other bays, harbours and quays that we could see, including a second cruise ship almost as big as the one we’d got off the day before. We also had an excellent view of the constant stream of aeroplanes coming into Sydney’s airport, just to the south of us in Botany Bay.

Soon it was time for our tour, which started by looking at some of the historical artefacts they have there followed by a climb up into their two telescope domes: one holding the oldest working telescope in Australia from 1874 and the other housing a modern, computer controlled, mirrored telescope. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy for stargazing, so instead the guide talked to us about the instruments and trained them on some land-based objects we could see.

After that we were shown some 3D movies they had on various subjects, including how big is big in astrological terms, and surviving the climatic extremes in our solar system. Finally, to make up for not seeing any stars, we were taken into a living room-sized planetarium, where we sat on beanbags under a giant umbrella onto the inside of which were projected the constellation of the southern hemisphere including the Southern Cross, which we hope to see in the dark skies of the Nullarbor Plain when we cross it in February.

***

The next morning, having checked online and discovered not only that the information we’d been given at the train station was correct, but also that we couldn’t make the journey any cheaper any other way, we went back to buy discounted tickets for the overnight train in economy seats. On the plus side though, while we were in the area, we went back to Wanderers Travel, where Juli spoke to the manager and managed to negotiate a significant discount on the previously quoted price, so that was sorted too.

On the way back down George Street, we pooped into the Queen Victoria Building, now refurbished as an elegant shopping arcade, where they have this amazing clock/calendar that fills the space above the central atrium.

I spent the rest of the afternoon blogging back at the hotel while Juli made a return visit to the opera house
and spent some time in the art museum. When she got back, we went out for dinner and found a sweet little Italian restaurant, where we shared a very tasty and reasonably priced pizza and a side salad.

Back at the hotel, I continued blogging while Juli turned on the TV to see what Australian’s watch, which turns out to be quite a few of the same (British) shows we watch at home, so when I’d finished, she e-mailed and uploaded her photos. By the way, we had to pay an extra $5 on top of the room rate for a Wi-Fi code that last just 24 hours to be able to do that. Seems like a small amount maybe, but everywhere else we’ve stayed, even in the cheapest of hostels, we’ve had free Wi-Fi as matter of course. Just another example of how expensive Sydney is I guess.

***

After being bitten to buggery by mosquitoes in the night and a bit of a late start, we spent the day in and around the Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney. We walked there via Circular Quay, where a third large cruise ship was berthed where ours was, round past the opera house and round again to Mrs Macquaries Chair, a favourite lookout point of the wife of Governor Macquarie, who founded the gardens in 1816. The 30 hectare site comprises several themed gardens and arboretums as well as statuary, lawns and ponds. It also holds Government House, which has been home to Governors since 1846 and was designed by the same architect that built Buckingham palace. Near by is the Sydney Conservatorium of Music, which is housed in what used to be Government House’s stables. We had a lovely time just walking around and enjoying this marvellous green space, popular – at least on the day we were there – with wedding photographers.

Later, after lunch at Hungry Jacks again, a rest back at the hotel, a bit of re-packing and some time spent uploading photos from the day, e-mailing and looking up e-books on coping with the menopause, we went out again to have dinner in Woolworth’s restaurant – yes: they still have Woolworths here, and yes: it has a restaurant. The food was at least cheap but not, unsurprisingly I suppose, that great.

Back at the hotel, I uploaded my few photos, e-mailed and blogged a bit, while Juli started reading Jenni Murray’s book, Is It Me Or Is It Hot In Here? on her Kindle. She tells me it was good, but spends quite a lot of time telling the reader how marvellous HRT is. Unfortunately, because of her particular cancer, Juli can’t take HRT, so if anyone knows of a really good book on how to cope with the Menopause without HRT, do write and let us know.


So that was our first visit to Sydney and the start of our Australian adventure. As I mentioned before, we’ll be returning to Sydney at the end of our loop down under, but next stop is south Queensland and north New South Wales, where we’ll be spending Christmas and the New Year with Juli’s family.
Next post: the journey north from Sydney to Brisbane.

TTFN - N

PS: Happy New Year, everone; all the best for twenty-thirteen.

Friday 14 December 2012

Days 160-175:Sailing from Singapore to Sydney

In which we cruise through Indonesia to Bali, cross the Timor Sea to Australia, land at Darwin, NT, sail round the tip of Queensland to Cairns, come down inside the Great Barrier Reef to Brisbane, and go on to Sydney, NSW.


Days 160 & 161 (Singapore)

Having spent the previous day washing our tent, I slept really well, but still, getting up in time for an early breakfast to leave enough time for repacking, checking out and getting over to the cruise terminal by noon was a bit of a shock to the system.

The whole process of getting to and onto the ship was really easy. Basically, having attached the personalised cruise luggage labels we printed out on our way home the other evening, we didn’t have to touch our bags from hotel room to ship cabin. [PoP (Point of Pedantry): Celebrity Cruises, like most cruise lines, refer to cabins, even little inside ones like ours, as ‘Staterooms’.]

Our ‘stateroom’ wasn’t (none of the staterooms were) ready when we got on board, so we took advantage of the delay to have some lunch from the extensive buffet in the Oceanview Cafe before exploring this vast ship (all fourteen and a bit decks of her). One of the on-board attractions of cruising is the food, and, in addition to the buffet restaurant, the main restaurant (Grand Epernay) a bunch of other cafes and grills and a special restaurant (called Blu) for their Aqua (first) class passengers, they have three speciality restaurants: Murano, which offers contemporary French cuisine; Silk Harvest (Asian fusion); and the Tuscan Grille, which is an Italian Steakhouse. Everywhere else is included in the price of the cruise, but for these three, there’s an additional fee to eat there. They offer a package deal, which covers you for one meal each at the speciality restaurants, and we decided to sign up for it that afternoon, because that evening we wanted to mark our 10th wedding anniversary, and, with a full moon and my birthday coming up during the cruise, we had a full set of three reasons to celebrate.

That evening we celebrated ten years of marriage (eleven since meeting on our first big trip) in Murano’s and had the most amazing evening enjoying some of our favourite things. At the end of the meal, they brought out a special little ‘Happy Anniversary’ chocolate cake with a single candle on it. Small though it was, there was just no way either of us had room for another mouthful, so they sent it up to our cabin for later instead.

***

The ship wasn’t scheduled to leave Singapore until later on the second day, which, after a late start, gave us the opportunity to explore the marina area and, in particular, the new Marina Bay Gardens: a complex of green spaces and themed show-gardens that the owners of the Sands hotel had to create in order to secure planning permission for their extraordinary new building just across the road from them.

It took us a long time to workout how to get from where the port shuttle bus dropped us off to the gardens’ entrance. Our route took us via the Sands hotel’s own gigantic shopping mall, their reception area and a dedicated underpass / MRT station ticket hall. It was a really hot day and, after walking what seemed like miles already, by the time we got to the gardens, we were exhausted and about ready to give up and go back to the ship without even bothering to look at the gardens themselves. I’m glad we didn’t, though, as we quickly discovered that there was a little tram to take you round the site and save you the bother of walking. Sweet.
The Super Trees of the Marina Bay Gardens

Back on the ship, having missed lunch, we had a burger from the Mast Grill, which seems to be open for burgers and hotdogs pretty much anytime of the day and very good they are too. However, they don’t do teas and coffees there, so it was back to the Oceanview Cafe for a cuppa (plus maybe a cake or two) and waited for the ship to set sail, or whatever motorised vessels do.

The ship was due to leave port at 6.00 pm, but even after many repeated announcements urging passengers to hand in their passports, several of our fellow shipmates didn’t and the port authorities wouldn’t permit the ship to leave port until they did. In the end, after waiting an extra two hours passed the scheduled time, we had to go down to change for dinner, as we had a fixed dining time. We eventually left port about half past nine – while we were eating – once the offending guests had been tracked down and all the paperwork had been completed.
Looking back at Singapore at night

The main dining room on the Celebrity Solstice is amazing, huge and quite noisy. It covers the back third of deck 3 and has two balconies to each side on deck 4. It must seat over a thousand diners at a time because most of the ships 2,800 passengers eat their main meals there, so they probably have to accommodate something like 2,000 people a night, which they manage over two sittings. Our assigned sitting was the later of the two. This means that, while we ate a bit later than we might have liked, there was no rush to finish, which made for a more relaxed meal.

The menu is impressive and changes every night, though they always include certain popular choices. Our waiter was excellent and seemed to enjoy telling us about all the dishes, which he obviously knew all about, but would always make a personal recommendation each evening. He was also very keen for us to bring any problem to his attention and said that if, having order a dish, we didn’t like what we got, that we should tell him and he would bring us something else instead. In fact, if we couldn’t choose between two dishes, he would even bring us both. Needless to say, we ate far too much, and, indeed, that first evening, I had two starters and two puddings.


Days 162 & 163 (at sea en route to Bali)

Singapore is very close to the equator and we actually crossed it at around 7 o’clock in the morning, well before we got up. However the big event of the morning activities programme was the equator crossing ceremony, conducted by King Neptune himself (Paul, the Cruise Director) with several of his court (various of the Activities Department staff members) in attendance.

The ceremony was also presided over by the captain and some of his senior officers and seemed to involve humiliating a number of his junior officers who hadn’t crossed the equator before. For the rest of us ‘Pollywogs’ (those who haven’t crossed the equator at sea) the process by which we became ‘Shellbacks’ (those who have) boiled down to being anointed in green slime and kissing a dead fish. Lovely.

After showering, we went to see Guest Relations to ask if thy could do something special for Adam and Corinne, who, you may remember, were emigrating to Australia. We wrote them a note to be delivered to their stateroom along with some flowers and a bottle of wine the evening before or morning of our arrival into Darwin: our first Australian port of call, at which time their permanent residency visas would be activated. That was followed by lunch in the main dining room, coffee in the cafe and a visit to the Hot Glass Show.

The Hot Glass Show is something unique to Celebrity’s Solstice class ships. Celebrity Cruises has team up with the Corning Museum of Glass, in up-state New York, to install and staff fully functioning glassblowing workshops on each of these large ships, at which usually twice-daily demonstrations are performed. The work they produce would be amazing anywhere, but that they do it at sea, well, we went to several demonstrations and were astounded by the beautiful pieces they create.

After tea (and scones), I went back to our room to blog for a bit, while Juli hit the gym to try and counter the effect of all this good eating, so that she could stay the same size as when she was fitted for all her lovely new frocks. I, on the other hand, had already acknowledged defeat, knowing that Mario, the Tailor on Koh Samui, had wisely anticipated my weak will and allowed a little extra room in the waist band.

Soon it was time to change for dinner – a formal night this evening – and to meet Adam and Corinne for pre-dinner cocktails. Another excellent dinner was followed by a song and dance show (Pulse) in the three deck high, 1,400+ seater theatre, and a look-in on the dancing going on after that in the groovy, 60s styled, Austin Powers set-like Sky Observation Lounge.

***

Breakfast the next day was ordered the night before from their pretty good room service menu and delivered to our stateroom at a time chosen by us. (Late, as you may have guessed.) Once we’d surfaced, we (and half the ship, so far as I could make out) attended a galley talk and tour. Apparently, each and every day, the food and beverage staff (about 600 of them – just over half the ship’s crew) prepare and serve in excess of 16,000 dishes. As you might expect, the main galley (one of several) is huge – I don’t think we saw more than a fraction of it on our tour – and the washing up area more like a hyper automated factory. After that we treated ourselves to a speciality coffee at the Cafe al Bacio, where we met an Australian couple on their ninth cruise this year!

They have a number of lecturers on board, who present talks on a range of interesting subjects from espionage to sea mammals. One of the regular speakers delivers presentations on the various port towns and cities the ship calls at from a historical and political perspective. We attended one to see what they (and he) were like. He clearly knows his stuff but, because he likes to jump around his subject quite a lot, sitting listening to him is a bit like watching a collection of badly edited ‘best of’ highlights from several of his lectures. Very entertaining, though.

After that, we had lunch from the buffet followed by a movie in our stateroom chosen from a long list of free to watch movies on demand. After that, Juli went up to one of the three pools to swim a bit while I stayed behind and blogged a bit, followed by tea (sushi) then dinner (a buffet of Singapore inspired dishes) another movie and finally bed at the end of another typical ‘sea day’. Exhausting.


Day 164 (Bali)

The port of Benoa on Bali – our only stop in country number 27, Indonesia – is too shallow to accommodate a huge vessel like the Celebrity Solstice. So, instead of docking, they anchor off shore and ferry passengers to and from the ship in small tender boats. I say small, but each one holds 120 passengers and doubles as a lifeboat, in which guise they can carry 150 souls.

We’d booked a shore excursion here to take us round the island a bit by bus, so that we could see as much of the place as possible. It was a long day, and we were taken to a number of temples, craft workshops and other cultural sites plus, of course, lunch at a very nice restaurant overlooking (from a safe distance) Mount Batur, the still active volcano at the heart of the island. The tour was very slick and the guides excellent, but I’d have to say that it seemed more like a series of linked shopping opportunities: not really enough time anywhere: not really our thing. Lunch was good, though.

By the time we got back on board, it was almost time to change for dinner, which we had in the main restaurant again. Considering what they have to achieve night after night, they do a grand job, but it isn’t Murano’s, the speciality restaurant where we ate on the first night: our wedding anniversary. We wished we could afford to eat there every evening, and, of course, some guest can and do. Ah well, we can all dream, though this night we had less chance, as the ships clocks went forward one hour.
Solstice anchored off Bali


Days 165 & 166 (at sea en route to Darwin)

Juli wasn’t feeling too good today, so I left her in bed with a cup of tea and took myself off to a couple of activities (a food presentation and a talk on Darwin) interspersed with trips back (with more tea) to check on Juli. Still not well, she managed a little lunch, but then spent the rest of the afternoon in bed watching movies. She felt a little better later, which was good as we were booked into the second of our speciality restaurants that evening: the Tuscan Grille for our habitual, though lately only infrequently marked, celebration for full moon. Another excellent meal, though marred for me by my own gluttony and not knowing when enough is enough.

Clocks forward another half hour tonight.

***

Today it was my turn to feel unwell and, after a light breakfast followed by a talk on how the earth was formed by fire and ice, I spent the rest of the day in bed. In a complete reversal of the previous day, it was Juli’s turn to look after me in between attending a number of activities, including another Hot Glass Show in the afternoon and what sounded like a very amusing Mind and Mentalism show in the evening. She also had diner on her own, because I was too sick to eat, so you know it must have been serious.


Day 167 (Darwin)

Still not good in the morning, but feeling a bit better by lunchtime. Not wanting to miss, not only our first port of call in Australia, but our only stop at the ‘Top End’, after a light lunch, we went ashore and took a taxi to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. The MAGNT is a first-class cultural institution that aims (and succeeds) to place the region’s art, history, culture – including aboriginal culture – and natural history in both an Australian and international context. We managed to fill several hours touring its many galleries and exhibition spaces, but by teatime Juli began to feel un well again, so we decided to cut our losses and return to the ship.

One last observation: a tale of two taxis. Our taxi driver to the museum was originally from Holland, but emigrated thirty something years ago. He told us he loved Darwin, its climate and the culture and wouldn’t return to the Netherlands even if he could. Our taxi driver back, however – originally from Naples, twenty something years ago, and still goes back to Italy every other year – really didn’t have that much positive to say about the place at all and was especially critical of the drink and drugs fuelled party culture he says is the main feature of the town now, especially amongst, as he put it, the Blacks and Asians. You pays your money and you takes your pick, I suppose.


Days 168 – 170 (at sea en route to Cairns)

Juli not well again this morning, so quick breakfast on my own then back to the room with tea. Seem to have done nothing in the morning, according to my diary, but evidently Juli was well enough to get up by midday, as I’ve recorded that we made it down to the Bistro on Five, which is a very nice creperie, for lunch, so that’s good.

After lunch, just to continue the food fest theme, we went to a cooking demonstration, where the Executive Chef cooked crab cakes, pork chops and apple crumble.

After that, we attended the opening ceremony of the Pool Olympics, where teams of flag carrying guests from Australia, America, Canada and the UK, plus a fifth team to represent ‘The Rest of the World’, compete against each other. Events on opening day included hockey, water basketball and expressive dance. The UK – incidentally the only country represented, including The Rest of the World, which seemed embarrassed to wave its flag – did quite well, on day one, finishing joint first with Canada with one point each.

After tea, we tagged along at a general knowledge, brain-teaser, quiz type event (it’s not the winning it the taking part that counts) before going to see one of the ship’s photographers about having some proper portraits taken of us. He showed us some examples of his work and we arranged to come back the next day to have some shots taken in his studio and some taken around the ship with no obligation to buy any prints if we didn’t like what he’d done.

Another formal night tonight, so another opportunity to wear one of our new frocks/suits in the main restaurant. Adam and Corinne brought down the bottle of wine the ship gave them for becoming Australians, after which we went to another song and dance show in the theatre, followed by dancing in the Sky Observation Lounge ‘til two in the morning. Yes, really.

***

Veeery long and late lie-in the next morning. Brunch at 1.00 pm and first cup of tea not until 3.00 pm. At 4.00 pm we got ready for the photo shoot, and by 5.00 pm, we were sitting in the photographer’s studio. I have to confess, when Juli first suggested we do this, I wasn’t all that keen, and at one point we actually called it off, but, in the end, the photographer, Seven, made the whole thing a lot of fun and we managed to take up two hours of his time having a laugh and our pictures taken all over the ship.

After dinner from the buffet, we watched Thursday Island float by before returning to our cabin to watch a movie or two. Another good day.

***

Spent the day blogging while Juli attended various enrichment activities including a lecture on the night sky. Later we re-watched The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (lovely) before changing for dinner (delicious) and attending a 50s-style party in the Sky Observation lounge (swingin’).

Clocks forward another half hour.


Day 171 (Cairns)

Early start today and straight down to pick up tickets for the tender over to Yorkey’s Knob, a small harbour with a boat club along the coast from Cairns. At the club house, we bought a combined ticket for Tjapukai (an aboriginal cultural centre, where we watched a series of dance and dramatic presentations that feature an aboriginal creation story, the didgeridoo and traditional songs and dances) and Skyrail (a  seven and a half kilometre long cable car up and over a mountain covered in original rainforest). Both are a short taxi ride from Yorkey’s Knob in a place called Caravonica, from where the Skyrail cable car goes to Kuranda Village, via Red Peak and Barton Falls.
View out over the rain forest from Skyrail

In addition to the theatrical presentations at Tjapulkai, they have a small aboriginal art gallery, a place where you can learn to play a didgeridoo and to throw a boomerang. You can also learn about bush tucker and some of its medicinal uses. They also have a pretty good restaurant, where we finally had some breakfast.

Red peak is the highest point on the cable car ride, and you have to change car here because the ride is actually split in to two section either side of this point. You can also get out and wander through the rain forest along a short length of boardwalk (at ground level) where park rangers give free guided tours or are available to answer any questions.

At Barton falls, as well the impressive (in the wet season, anyway) waterfall, they have a visitor centre, which has lots of information about the fauna and flora of the rainforest and about the eco-system of rainforests generally.

Kuranda is a small town in the rainforest which earns a living out selling tat to tourists at massively inflated prices. However, apart from shopping, you can take a longer walk through a bit more rainforest on an accessible path. The route takes about an hour or so and is a very picturesque way to return from the top of the town back to where the Skyrail stops.

Normally, having taken the Skyrail to Kuranda, you can make the return journey back towards Yorkey’s Knob on what all the guide books say is a very lovely scenic railway. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, the line was closed for maintenance, so we had to take the Skyrail back down again, which is okay as you get to see it all from the other direction too.
Solstice far out at sea from Skyrail

At the bottom, there are more opportunities to spend money on over-priced tourist tat and a restaurant, where we enjoyed a cup of tea while waiting for the shuttle bus back to the boat club and the tender back to the ship.

The driver of the shuttle bus gave us a bit of a running commentary on the way back plus some fascinating facts about Cairns. Did you know, for instance, that tourism is the number two industry in Cairns (pronounced Cans, by  the way) and second only to sugarcane production. Australia was the first country in the world to mechanise sugarcane harvesting, which means they no longer have to set fire to it to burn off the leaves and kill the snakes. The sugarcane crop takes 12 months to mature and requires no watering because Cairns is so wet. In deed, it rains so much there that Cairns is the only city in the world I have ever heard of having its annual rainfall measured in metres. Just over two of them, in fact.

Back on the ship, we uploaded our photos from the day then went to see Seven, the ship’s photographer, to arrange a viewing of his pictures of us for the next day. That was followed by dinner in the main restaurant then another Hot Glass Show. It was great to see them working at night when you can really see the glow of the hot glass. Also, you get the benefit of a video camera they have set up behind a panel of special high melting point glass set into the back of one of the furnaces, where they return the piece they’re working on every now and then to keep the glass at the right temperature. As the cruise goes on, each time you go to see a show they explain more about the art of glassblowing, the pieces they produce get more elaborate and the techniques they use more sophisticated. It’s just magical to watch and quite mesmerising.


Days 172 & 173 (at sea en route to Brisbane)

Today was my birthday and we had breakfast in bed followed by birthday cards, some brought out from home by Marion. (Thanks again, M.) After that, I went to a talk on writing to persuade (mostly people to part with their money) while Juli went to a lecture on art and a preview for an art auction that we both attended after lunch. Lunch, which was in the main restaurant with Adam and Corrine, was a bit disappointing (more cards and presents – a new Moleskein notebook – though) and the auction – conducted by Park West, the largest art auction house in the world, apparently, who have, they claim, something like 10 million dollars worth of art on board at any one time – was boring, so I made my excuses and left. Instead, I went to a demonstration of Sushi making, followed by a an ice cream from the Gelateria. Well, it was my birthday.

Later, we both attended the first viewing of the photos that Seven took, and I have to say, they weren’t half bad. During the two hour photo shoot, Seven took 185 pictures, and Juli and I took almost as long to whittle them down to a more manageable number. We ended up with a short list of 32, which Seven printed off as a couple of contact sheets for us to go through again later to reduce the number still further and to decide on a style.

Our final activity before dinner was going to watch a movie (Geoff, Who Lives at Home) in their second, smaller theatre, which doubles as a cinema sometimes. Not, as we had expected, some so-so slacker flick to pass the time, but a heart-warming portmanteau movie we both thoroughly enjoyed.

While changing for dinner, Juli gave me her main present: a very smart Guess? watch in gun metal grey steel with a single diamond at the twelve o’clock position. I’ve never had a posh watch before and, once it had been adjusted to fit my skinny wrist, it finished off my posh new clothes rather better than my fabric-strapped Casio managed.

Dinner was at the last of the restaurants in our speciality dinning package, Silk Harvest, their Asian Fusion restaurant. We ordered three starters to share between us and two main course dishes, including steamed Barramundi, a famously delicious fish from Australia, which actually tastes a lot like Sea Bass.

We finished off we a couple of desserts and were thinking that was that, when a group of wait staff approached our table with one more dish: a small birthday cake (a lot like the one we had for our anniversary, except with ‘Happy Birthday’ on it) and sang a Balinese version of Happy Birthday. We hadn’t told them it was my birthday, but it seems they knew anyway. Apparently it flashes up on their computer automatically along with our reservation details. Again, we were far too full to do the cake justice, so, like before, they arranged for it to be sent up to our stateroom , where it was waiting for us when we turned in at the end of a lovely day.

However, there was one last treat in store. No, not that: we spent a couple of hours going over the contact sheets Seven had prepared for us. We eventually settled on a set of 20 shots, reduced resolution versions of which you can see if you click on the following link to this special Picasa web folder. [10th Anniversary Photoshoot]

***

After such a full day, the previous day, it wasn’t surprising that we completely missed breakfast. However, we were too early for lunch, and the only place serving food at this in-between time was the Mast Grill, so burgers for breakfast it was.

Later, after yet another Hot Glass Show – I tell you: they’re addictive – we were having a cup of tea and some fruit in the cafe, when we got talking to a guy about whales. Juli remarked that she was sorry it was the wrong time of year for seeing whales and the guy suggested that that was fine by him in a if-I-never-see-another-whale-it’ll-be-too-soon sort of way. Turns out he recently lost his 30 foot sailing boat when a whale (of similar length) surfaced directly under it and flipped him over. However, that was far from being the long and short of it.

On the night it happened, a Monday, he was on his own about 30 miles out to sea at one of his favourite fishing spots. When the craft capsized, he was caught underneath it and under the water, holding his breath and unable to find his way to the surface. He was about to take his last ‘big gulp’ of sea water (to end it all on his terms) when suddenly, he found himself in a small air pocket. Although saved for the time being, the oxygen in the air pocket soon began to run out. Faced with the prospect of suffocating in the bad air, he was again about to take his last ‘big gulp’ of water when somehow he found himself on the surface, from where he was able to pull himself up onto the kitchen table-sized piece of hull that was still above water, where he waited to be rescued.

The problem was, it was now the middle of the night, all his radio equipment and signalling devices were lost or ruined and he was a tiny speck on a dark sea miles from land. One boat did come out near his position, but apparently couldn’t hear his cries above their engine.

Several hours had passed on the upturned vessel, when finally (and amazingly) another boat came to his exact location – apparently, and quite independently, these guys had downloaded the same GPS coordinates from a fishing website – and, when they turned off their engine off to fish, heard his shouts for help. They rescued him of course then called the coastguard.

The chances of them being in the right spot were remote enough, but it seems the odds of them being there at anything like the right time were even smaller. For a start, this group of men never normally fish on a Monday night. Secondly, they almost didn’t make it there at all, as on their drive to the harbour, with their boat in tow, they were involved in a traffic incident that saw their trailer hit by a another vehicle that turned out to be a getaway car driven by a gang of armed robbers being pursued by the police.

You might think that was enough excitement for one tale, but this one doesn’t end there. When the coastguard got out to the wreck, after getting our guy on board, they decided that his semi-submerged vessel was a danger to shipping and began to tow it to shore. The way he told it, watching the coastguard attach ropes to his pride and joy then drag it along behind them was too much for his dickey ticker – he has a history of coronary disease – and the poor guy had a heart attack on the spot. The coastguard called in an air ambulance and the doctor on board it advised, cutting the guy’s boat free so that the coastguard’s boat with this half drowned, half suffocated, now critically ill chap on it could make better speed to rendezvous with the helicopter. Good call, I’m thinking.

Well, obviously, since we were getting all this first-hand, everything worked out okay in the end. The boat was declared a right off – there’s a whole other chapter to the story involving a botched salvage operation, denied by the insurance company, of course, not only witnessed, but videoed by an astonished boat-loving onlooker. However, the guy’s already bought his next boat: the biggest they could afford. Wonder if he’s planning any more solo night-fishing trips.

After that, Juli went to another Hot Glass Show, but I went back to our room to write down the preceding whale of a tale. Later, we had a cup of tea and my birthday chocolate cake (yum) then got ready for dinner, which was oysters followed by my favourite: beef wellington. (Yum yum.)


Day 174 (Brisbane)

Our last port of call before Sydney was Brisbane, or rather a commercial harbour some 45 minutes by shuttle bus from Brisbane.

Once the bus had dropped us off, we headed straight to the nearest shopping centre in search of a Starbucks, not to fuel our caffeine addictions, but to use the free Wi-Fi connection we’ve always enjoyed at their stores elsewhere in the world. However, we were forgetting – or rather, still hadn’t quite learnt – that in Australia, nothing comes for free. You get half an hour per hot drink, and, at Oz prices, that works out to be about 16 cents a minute.

Anyway, about six drinks later, we’d managed to get all our online jobs done including uploading a few posts and pictures. Unfortunately, Juli began not to feel too well again and so we came back to the ship a bit earlier than planned, but that was okay, as we’d be returning to Brisbane later while staying with Juli’s Aunt in Worongary (about an hour south of the city) from where I’m writing this post, as it happens. Hello, Connie.
Back on board, Juli rested for a couple of hours while I started to read The Hobbit on Juli’s Kindle. I’m hoping to finish the book in time to see the new Peter Jackson film this Christmas.

After dinner, we went to see the Aussie Boys – a trio of young, Australian men – perform various classic songs from down under. Yeah: I had trouble identifying more than a couple myself.

***

Our last day on the boat consisted of a bit of breakfast before going to see the final Hot Glass Show and failing to win anything in their raffle; lunch (fish curry) before a little packing; resting; collecting our photographs on CD-ROM; tea with Adam and Corinne because we weren’t going to see them at dinner due to them having an early night on account of wanting to get up supper early to watch the ship sail into Sydney harbour the next morning; a little more packing; getting dressed for the theatre; watching the final show, which was a sort of compendium of all the other shows; one last, delicious diner (lamb shanks slow cooked in a tagine) and setting the clocks forward another hour for New South Wales Daylight Saving Time.
The final Hot Glass Show



And that was that for our first ever cruise. I have to say it was both brilliant and utterly exhausting. If that’s what a 16 night cruise does for you, we’re going to have to come up with some kind of strategy to survive our 88 nighter next year, or we might never get back to the UK.

Next time, I’ll tell you about getting off the boat in Sydney and the first of our two visits there.

TTFN - N

Tuesday 11 December 2012

From the land down under

Dear all

Based on local time, today - the twelfth of the twelfth, twenty twelve - is, by my reckoning, day 180. That's half-way through our 360 days, though not quite, of course, half-way through our year and still some way off being half-way round. Just thought I ought to post something to that effect.

More on how we got here to follow soon.

TTFN - N

Friday 7 December 2012

Days 155-159: Singapore

In which we survive five days in another big (and very expensive) city.


Day 155 (day 1 of 5 – Raffles)

So, here we are in the city state of Singapore and it’s a Sunday, so we go downstairs to try our included alfresco breakfast. The hotel’s website shows images of beautiful young couples enjoying an unhurried breakfast as they chat and laugh in a sunny and spacious courtyard. The reality for us was a table pushed over to one side of a 2 metre-wide pedestrian diversion sandwiched between the front of the hotel and a wooden hording screening off the road works. Very little light making it down to street level but plenty of people walking through, taking a good look at you and what you’re eating as they pass, including workmen in their overalls on route to the site, which burst into action – just the other side of the wooden hoarding – at 10 o’clock on the dot, and which made all further conversation impossible.

We’d been warned that Singapore would be expensive, so Juli had researched and circled on a map all the shopping centres that had in them a branch of Marks & Spencer, reasoning (fairly) that since the goods would likely be the same as back home, so too would the prices. Not so, but at least we knew what we were getting and there was something comfortably familiar about being there. Neither of us found all that we were looking for, but we got some bits and pieces and I was able to complete my shopping at another store just along from M&S (finally found my plain black lace-ups) which meant that we were, at least, all set for Will’s big 40th birthday night out that evening, kicking off with a drink at Raffles Hotel in their famous Long Bar.

Next we walked to Little India, a part of town, which, as the name suggests, has a thriving Indian community and some amazing gold and and silver (but gold especially) jewellers and gorgeous sari and sari silk shops. The area is also home to the Mustafa Centre, which is another large shopping mall, but not as we (in the west) know it, Jim. Walking – or, rather, battling your way – through it is like exploring an eastern bazar, full of noise and colour; not really my thing, but Juli was loving every minute of it.

It was a hot day and by now we were both ready for a sit down and something to eat and, particularly, drink. I’d spotted a curry restaurant on the way through Little India that was advertising a couple of very reasonably prices set lunches. We ordered one of each so that we could share, and enjoyed the best Indian meal we’d had all trip and for some time before that. (Probably since a meal out in Bradford while on one of our trips to see Iona. Hi, Iona.)

Back at the hotel, with road-works still in full swing – this is a Sunday remember – we showered and changed into our poshest new frocks ready for the big night out. Big, not only because it was Will’s 40th, but also because it was going to be the last time we’d see most of our traveling companions of the last five months, and because it was being held, as previously mentioned, at Singapore’s world famous Raffles Hotel, home and birthplace of the world famous Singapore Sling.

We arrived bang on time and walked into the Long Bar hoping to make something of an entrance only to have the wind somewhat knocked out of our sails as we realised, after having a bit of a look round, that we were the first to arrive. There wasn’t an obvious space to await a party of 20 or so (some of Will’s friends were expected to be there too) so we left and went for a bit of a walk round the hotel, which, if you have a spare couple of grand, would be a lovely place to stay, although, I think it would be very tempting never to set foot outside of the place until it was time to come home.

When we got back round to the bar, there was still no sign of the others, so we sat at a table on their veranda and ordered, what else, but a couple of ‘original’ (they come in all sorts of new variations) Singapore Slings. I’d like to think we looked the part, because the woman who took my order asked for the number of our suite and seemed surprised when I explained we weren’t guests and would be paying cash, but she probably asks the same question to all their customers, most of whom weren’t dressed up at all. Shorts and T-shirts at Raffles? I don’t know; country’s gone to the dogs. Pah! In my day… bloody disgrace… little pink bits on the map… and so on and so forth.

The others arrived en masse while we were waiting for our drinks, which is a pity because it would have been nice to be discovered Sling in hand to complete the picture of colonial decadence, but everyone made the right noises: ‘Wow!’; ‘Look at you,’; ‘Love that dress/suit*,’ (*=delete as appropriate) and, to be honest, we, all of us, looked the part and caught more than a few admiring glances from the other patrons there that evening. Everyone looked fab in their respective new dresses, suits and, in one case, sari plus makeup and hair dos/cuts. No one more so than Will, who looked resplendent in his new three-piece and neatly trimmed goatee, quite a change from his usual surf shorts plus rock band/beer brand T-shirts, flip-flops and wild ‘mountain man’ hair and beard.

After a quick chorus of Happy Birthday, a couple more drinks, some chat and quite a few teary good-byes, we headed off with Adam and Corinne – to whom we didn’t say good bye, as we’ be seeing them again on the ship to Oz – in search of food. I’d like to say we finished the night in style at some fancy restaurant or colonial style chophouse, but we didn’t. Instead we dined at Wendy’s Burgers with coffee at a local coffee shop. Well, after Raffles, that’s all we could afford.

“Another Original Sling, sir?” “You’ll have to ask my bank manger.”

[Pictures to follow... hopefully.]


Day 156 (day 2 of 5 – Skyfall)

So, the next morning, because we didn’t get down to breakfast before 8.00 am, we had to sit inside because the road works had started up again by then and you couldn’t hear yourself think on the street. ‘Inside’ was a bar with some high stools and tables, which was, at least, quieter due to the heavy door to the street, but the same door meant that, if you were carrying more than one thing back from the buffet outside, you either had to be lucky with someone coming out when you wanted to go in, or put your food on the pavement then open the door and somehow hold it open with your foot while you retrieved your food.

Last night, when we got back to the hotel after Raffles, Juli managed to speak to the manager about the misrepresentation of the hotel on their website and a bunch of other stuff, most of which had been resolved quite quickly and easily but should have been picked up before. Anyway, I don’t know exactly what she said – I hate confrontation and Juli doesn’t need a second – but the manager came to see us and agreed to a healthy discount on our stay to be put back onto our card. It didn’t make the room or the hotel any better, of course, but it did help to sweeten the bitter taste in our mouths, so that was a good result.

We’d arranged to meet with Corinna one last time – she didn’t want to say goodbye at Raffles – and she gave us a card, to be opened after she’d gone, so we decided to keep it until our anniversary and open it with the others Marion had brought with her from home. We met, appropriately enough, at the Sim Lim Square shopping centre, which is famous in Singapore for being the place to go for electronics. After a quick wander round there, we had lunch at another cheap and cheerful curry shop nearby, then walked to another shopping centre, the Cathay Centre at our end of Orchard Road, Singapore’s premier shopping street. (A bit like Regent’s Street in London.)

The Cathay Centre is a new construction built behind the 30’s facade of a much older building, which was the headquarters of the BBC in Singapore before the Second World War and used, after they’d captured the island, by the Japanese as their centre for propaganda. Now, it houses many shops and offices plus a cinema, so, one way or another, it’s been used for the purposes of marketing and spin for a quite a while.
Today our mission was to book two tickets for Skyfall, the latest 007 movie, which premiered in London while we were travelling. We arranged things so that we had a bit of time between buying the tickets and the film starting so that we could go a little bit further down Orchard Road to the tourist information office, where we enquired about city tour bus trips and the zoo.

We came away with bus tickets and brochures and just enough time to nip into Starbucks before the film started. Don’t know if you’ve seen it yet, but I – a bit of Bond fan – think it’s one of the best. Daniel Craig is fast becoming my favourite Bond – Sorry, Sir Sean – and manages to reference some of the old movies to the extent that it sort of comes full circle, whilst standing on it’s own as an excellent, modern day story of global espionage in 21st century cyberspace. Do see it if you haven’t, but watch out for the thicker and faster than usual product placement, which can distract at times.

Bond refreshes the parts other movie franchises can’t reach.


Day 157 (day 3 of 5 – Botanical Gardens)

This is the day the other’s should have caught the ferry to Jakarta, but we found out from Corinna that they were flying instead due to the ferry having broken down. Apparently this late change of plans caught some of the group on the hop and caused not a little muttering in the ranks. However, it made no difference to Will, who was staying in Singapore for a few more days with his mate Wayne, who travelled with the group for a bit from Bangkok, nor to Ange, Martin and Feng, who had made other arrangements anyway, and not at all to us, who, at the time of writing, feel well out of all that now.

Breakfast this morning was boiled carrots and onions with baked beans. Very boutique (not).

We had to walk a bit to our nearest round the town open-top tour bus stop, which was back on Orchard Road. There are three open-top bus tours in Singapore: a sort of east-west route that covers the botanical gardens and the marina but not Little India or Chinatown; a north-south route that does Little India and Chinatown but neither the marina nor the botanical gardens; and the route we’d chosen, which is sort of a compromise route that goes near all four areas, but focuses more on giving an overview of the whole city.

We went round once to take photos and to see where we might want to stop off the second time around. You have to stop and get off at the Singapore Flyer, which is a Ferris wheel near the marina: like the London Eye but a bit taller, and serves as their hub. Other than the wheel, there’s not a lot else to do there except shop or have a drink and wait for the next bus to continue your tour. You can eat, though, and they have a sort of reconstruction of a typical street from the fifties, filled with all sorts of nostalgia and memorabilia with little food stalls selling cheap hawker food.

In the end, the only place we wanted to get off was the nearest stop to the Botanical Gardens, which are quite extensive and a bit like Savile Gardens near Windsor. They have a lake, where you can hear concerts sometimes; a large collection of orchids, which is the only thing you have to pay to see; and an original piece of rainforest, which has an accessible path through it. We had a lovely time walking round, seeing all the sculpture and following all the paths through the different gardens. You could easily spend a whole day there without spending very much money.

We didn’t have all day, though, and had to catch the last bus back, as we’d arranged to meet up with Adam and Corinne near their hotel in Little India at an (what else) Indian restaurant called the Jungle Tandoor, where the greeters where safari suits complete with pith helmets. We had a very jolly evening (as usual) and even managed to get our cruise tickets plus some other stuff printed off at an all night print shop on the way home. So it was a shame, then, that when we got back to the hotel the evening was spoiled by first, the news that there was a problem with putting the discount Juli had negotiated straight back onto our card – apparently their machine can’t do that – and second, with a item of laundry Juli had put in that they decided was too badly stained to risk washing, though they still charged us for washing it. [It later turned out that the offending item was in fact just rather faded.] Hey ho.


Day 158 (day 4 of 5 – Night Safari)

After breakfast, we went shopping. Back to M&S where Juli had spotted (and tried on) a really smart black dress plus shoes to match the first time we visited. I told her at the time she should have got it, but she was a bit unsure and it had a rather un-Marks-and-Sparks price tag. In the end we spent the whole of the discount Juli had negotiated on not only the dress and shoes, but a classy little evening bag too and pair of ear rings to top the ensemble [in all of which she looked absolutely fabulous on our first ‘formal’ (black tie) evening of the cruise].

After lunch, and an afternoon nap, we headed out once more to flag-down a taxi to take us to the Night Safari zoo, which is a bit of a way out of the city, next door to the main Singapore Zoo and, as the name suggests, only operates at night and features, not unsurprisingly, animals which are or are mostly nocturnal. It starts with a ‘Creatures of the Night’ show, which is a bit rubbish (unless you’re five) but the compere was very good and worked well with the people he brought up on stage to be stooges for various animal based comedy routines.

For most of the evening we walked around the park. There are four walking routes, each with a different theme, that connect up and allow you to see the majority of the park. To see it all, however, you have to take the electric tram, which criss-crosses the walking routes – don’t worry: they have plenty of staff at all the crossing points to make sure you’re not run over by the tram – and takes you to the parts the walking routes don’t cover. (Heineken should sponsor that too.) The whole thing is set up so you never feel the animals are caged in (visitors and carnivores – and the rest for that matter – are kept apart by moats and ditches) and you get to see all manner of normally unseen creatures going about their business, seemingly unaware of (or unconcerned by) the presence of humans. It’s a great attraction and just a shame it costs so much to get there by taxi because it’s out of town location and the public transport option is a bit complicated.


Day 159 (day 5 of 5 – wash day)

Spent most of our last full day scrubbing, rinsing and drying every inch of our tent in the hotel bathroom. Australia has some of the strictest bio security regulations in the world aimed at keeping out any nasty bugs and bacteria that might threaten Australia’s indigenous fauna and flora. As well as an outright ban on food stuffs, flowers and untreated wood. They’re especially suspicious of camping equipment, including muddy boots and tents, which may have been anywhere near farm land. It’s not that you can’t bring them in, but they have to be spotless or you risk having them taken off you and destroyed.

While I was closeted in the bathroom doing that, Juli did a bit more last minute shopping and ironing. We spent the whole day like that, with only a break in the middle of the day for a quick pizza lunch. But, in that day, I managed to get the job done including drying the thing, re folding it and putting it away, all spick and span and looking like new… sort of. We’ll have to see if it passes muster, assuming they even look at it: I don’t imagine many passengers disembark from a cruise ship carrying a tent.


And that’s about it for Singapore. We could have done loads more if we’d had the cash, but the next day we boarded the Celebrity Solstice bound for Sydney, Australia, and that’s another story.

TTFN - N

Days 150-154: Malaysia

In which we get back on the truck for the last stage of our overland journey as we travel to (and through) Malaysia and on to Singapore.


They say all good things must come to an end, and this post covers the end of two things: firstly, our holiday from travelling on Samui and our last day on the big orange bus, but that’s a bit later.


Days 150 & 151 (drive to Kuala Lumpur)

We got up before dawn and were waiting outside our hotel for Karen and some of our truck mates, who had been staying on another part of the island, to come by in a minibus and take us back to the port for the 6.00 am ferry. All in all, something of a crashing return to the reality of truck life.

Having met back up with the others on the ferry and found out about all the fun they’d all been having – and seen all the new luggage they were carrying – we sat down and waited for the ferry to take us back to the main land and to the truck, which had been waiting patiently for us all the time we were on the island, and which started up perfectly for us the first time Will turned the key.

Everybody back on the bus. Next stop: Malaysia.

Actually, the next stop was for a breakfast of minced pork dumplings at a motorway service station, and the stop after that was for a lunch of pot noodle at another motorway service station.  Just like old times, eh?
We got to the Thai side of the border at about 3.00 pm and through to the Malay side about half and  hour later: quite possibly the quickest, easiest border crossing in Asia.

Crossing into Malaysia from Thailand is another one of those transitions where you know straight away that you’re in a new country. The roads are better, the verges tidier and everything looks, well, more finished. In fact we were really liking Malaysia until we got to the town of Alor Setar, where we stayed overnight on our way down to Kuala Lumpur. Normally, Karen camps en route to the capital, but decided to try the hotel here instead. Initially, we were all very pleased to be staying in a hotel instead of camping one last time. However, and I think this was the consensus opinion, shared even by Karen, this hotel was the crappiest, dirtiest most run-down, mossie infested flophouse yet and that’s saying something. It even made one or two of us nostalgic for quarries.

***

Diner last night was at a Pizza Hut, complete with screaming child – quite a contrast to the previous evening – and breakfast this morning was taken at a KFC ready for an 8.00 am departure. Malaysian roads are excellent (Will said they were too good – not quite sure what he meant by that) and we were soon eating up the kilometres. By 4.00 pm, we were rolling into Kuala Lumpur and caught our first glimpse of the famous bridged twin Petronas Towers and the ball-on-a-spike-like KL Tower, which has a revolving restaurant at the top, a bit like the BT tower in London, only much taller.

Our hotel – much better than the previous night’s – was right next to one of KL’s mega malls. This one, the Times Square Shopping Centre, had fourteen sprawling floors of retail units offering all manner of goods and services from burgers to breast augmentation, a cinema, a bowling alley and permanent fun fair complete with roller coaster, and was far from being exceptional in this city of shops. However, it didn’t meet my needs in that, with all those shops, I failed to find a shoe shop that had a pair of plain black lace-ups in a size 6. Mind you, we had no problem whatsoever in finding something for dinner.  It seemed as if the cuisine of almost every nation under the sun was represented in the several food courts there. We chose Korea, not a country we’re visiting this trip, but somewhere very firmly on our bucket list.
  



Days 152 & 153 (Kuala Lumpur)

So here we are in yet another big city with little to interest us. After breakfast at the hotel, Juli and I went back to the shopping centre over the road – well it is at least getting out of the hotel and, very importantly, air conditioned – where I showed Juli all the shoes I didn’t buy because they didn’t have my size. There was one pair that I liked especially, so I thought I’d just check: “Do you have these in a size six?” “Yes. Of course.” “Oh, only last night you didn’t. Could I try them on please?” “Yes. Of course.” [Sales assistant goes to check] To Juli: “That’s good. I’m glad I double checked.” [Sales assistant returns] “Sorry. Only Brown.” “But I’m looking for black, like these.” “Sorry. Only Brown.” “Hmmm.”

After that, I left Juli on her own for a little light retail therapy and returned to the hotel to e-mail and blog a bit between looking up at Denzel Washington save Pittsburgh from a runaway train in Unstoppable. (Perfectly acceptable afternoon fare.) Juli returned at around 3.00 pm utterly exhausted and slept until teatime.

After dinner – curry from a local Indian restaurant (for local Indians) where Juli and I were the only westerners and Juli was the only woman – we went back to the hotel and re-packed our new ‘cruise’ suitcase: quite possibly the largest case I’ve ever owned, but not the largest Juli has every used. Apparently she had one so large it had it’s own gravity and atmosphere. It was known as Bernard (because it was the size of a St. Bernard and even had it’s own lead) and Juli took it to Switzerland when she au-paired there with Marion, who will no doubt remember him(?).

***

The next day, we decided we had to at least try going a little further afield. KL has an excellent Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system, including an overhead monorail that runs from one end of the city to the other via, rather conveniently, a station immediately adjacent to our favourite shopping centre. We thought it would be an excellent way to see a little more of the city without having to walk around in the hot sun, plus we thought it would help to kill a couple more hours. In reality, it didn’t even take us one hour to travel the entire length of the line via both ends and back to the shopping centre again, so we went back to the hotel and re-packed our main bags. After which we rewarded ourselves with a Wendy burger: less well known than BK or Mac Ds, but much tastier despite being square, which is just wrong for a burger.

While we were there, we heard another screaming child. This is noteworthy because, although sadly not unusual in the west, you just don’t see (or, more importantly, hear) screaming, crying or even whining children in most of Asia. You don’t see them being carried, pampered or pandered to, and you never hear one complain. They seem to have to stand on their own two feet from a very early age and they just get on with it. That is, until you reach westernised, big cities like Beijing and Kuala Lumpur where pester power is alive and kicking and screaming.

Back at our hotel, we watched X-Men: First Class, which definitely lives up to it’s name, had a beer, went to dinner (at Nandos back in the mall again) then went to bed. Cities are just wasted on us.


Day 154 (KL to Singapore)

This day: Saturday, 17th November, is the last day of our truck trip, which started 22 weeks earlier on Sunday, 17th June. That’s five months on the road, rails and sea and about as far as you can go overland across Europe and Asia by road and rail. (Actually, St. Petersburg to Vladivostok might just pip it, but only a pedant would mention that. Maybe next time.)

Driving out of KL was as smooth and easy as getting in was. We made Malacca (also spelled Melaka) another World Heritage city, by 11:45 and were given just under three hours to explore it. In the event, we’d just got started when the heavens opened and we experienced out first proper rain for months. Needless to say, we were totally unprepared for the torrential deluge, and had to take shelter in what we thought was a museum of Islam, but turned out to be an exhibition on road safety for kids. It didn’t really have enough to keeps us occupied for the duration of the downpour, so when it looked to be easing off a bit, we made a dash for it.

Irony of ironies, we end up in yet another shopping mall, eating first a burger at Burger King then getting takeout from Starbucks. Sorry, World Heritage Organisation: we’ll have to take a rain check on that.
Back on the truck, now headed for the Malay/Singapore border town of Johor Bahru, it was tropical storm all the way. The motorways in Malaysia have places for motorcyclists to stop and shelter from such downpours and plenty of large drainage channels to carry rain water away from the roads and verges. It wasn’t long, with all the windows closed against the rain, before our collective breath steamed them up, so I can’t tell you very much about our very last drive. I can tell you, however, that we were all very relieved to discover that the border post, which much more like an airport than a checkpoint, had a large and covered dropping off point, which meant that our luggage stayed dry as we off-loaded everything. In Juli and my case, all six bags of it.

Trucks – or, at least, ones like Will and Karen’s – aren’t allowed into Singapore, so this really was the end of the road for our big orange ‘MadBus’, as Christopher dubbed it. I’m a bit sad that we didn’t quite finish as we’d started. Instead had to carry, wheel and drag our kit up escalators, along walk-ways and across cavernous customs halls, where we got stamped out of Malaysia, then carry, wheel and drag ourselves and our bags onto a shuttle bus – everything inside: there were quite a few scowls thrown our way by the other passengers – which took us the kilometre or so across the causeway to the Singapore side of the border.
Then, after getting stamped into Singapore (country number 26) more carrying, wheeling and dragging to the taxi rank, where a very nice man helped us into his very nice (and air conditioned) cab, where we collapsed.

About thirty Singapore Dollars later, we arrived at our little bit of luxury, at the end of our mostly luxury-less journey, to discover it was right next to a major construction site that had completely closed the road in front, under which they were building a new MRT station. (Curiously, their website, where they describe themselves as a boutique hotel in a quiet corner of town, hadn’t mentioned any of this, despite the fact that it had been going on for over a year and scheduled to last another five.)

The hotel receptionist assured us that the noise was only normally evident during office hours and that we wouldn’t be affected by it since they had put us in the back of the hotel away from the road. Somewhat doubtful regarding their assurances – and, by now, very, very tired – we went up to our room and sighed. (Actually, I sighed; Juli cried.)


In the next post, I’ll tell you what happened next and all about our ‘stopover’ in Singapore.

TTFN - N

Days 144-149: Thailand part 2

In which we arrive on Koh Samui and go aah.

Day 144 (Arrive in Surat Thani, bus to Don Sak and the ferry to Koh Samui)

In the last post, we were on-board a train from Bangkok, bound for the Island of Koh Samui.
Although our berths were very comfortable, I didn’t get very much sleep because one of the carriage lights was right by my upper-berth bunk and shone brightly – no dimmed night-time setting – right through the curtains, all night.

We arrived at Surat Thani about 25 minutes late, but that was okay as the bus wasn’t scheduled to leave for another half hour or so. There were two buses and we were given a bit of a run-around as the surly baggage handler of one bus told us we wanted the other bus and vice verse. We eventually got on the right bus, but only after being told to wait between the two buses for no good reason and Juli making a bit of a fuss. We did, at least get seats.Two others were less fortunate and had to perch where they could between the baggage handler and the driver at the front of the bus.

The bus left punctually at 8.00 am and arrived at the Don Sak ferry terminal in plenty of time for our 10.00 am sailing. Unfortunately, no announcement was made, so when some other passengers got off, we assumed we should too. Noticing that most others hadn’t, however, we asked if we were in the right place for our ferry and were rudely and aggressively told to ‘get back on bus’ by the surly baggage handler. The driver then, without waiting for us to retake our seats, roared off and drove, like a lunatic, to another part of the port where we again had to guess if this was the right place for us to get off. This time we waited to see what everyone else did, and, as most of the others got off, so did we. How they all knew when to stay and when to go, I have no idea. Hey ho.

We made our way into the ferry terminal building and, after a short wait, were soon embarking. The three of us found some seats near a food concession and made ourselves comfortable. Once the ship was under way, I bought some very tasty (and reasonable priced – no captive market rip off here – British and French ferries please note) stir fried pork and noodles for breakfast and some tea for Juli, who’d had her breakfast on the train: a cheese, ham and egg sandwich with chips.

The ferry got us to Na Thon Pier on Koh Samui dead on time and we had no difficulty in finding a shared minibus taxi to take us to our hotel. Already at The Waterfront Hotel, Bophut, waiting for us by the pool, beers in hand, were Marion and John, having arrived earlier that morning at the end of their three-flight marathon journey from London, via Hong Kong and Bangkok. Once we’d settled in, we wasted as little time as possible before joining them.

By the time we went to bed that night, we’d drunk more beer, swam in the pool, had cocktails by the light of the setting sun, enjoyed a diner of Thai food (shrimp green curry for me; chicken and cashew nuts for Juli) more drinks, swam again and both John and I had been measured up for new suits and shirts. Not bad for day one.


Days 145 to 149 (on Koh Samui)

For the next five days we tried to do as little as possible, a task made easy by our picture postcard perfect location: a beautiful bungalow in a beautiful hotel with a beautiful pool (and pool-side bar) set in beautiful gardens by a beautiful beach on a beautiful island.


I’m not going to record a blow by blow account, but during our time on the Island, we did more of the above plus a little light shopping, watched John scare Marion to death in a two-seater go-cart, went for suit and shirt fittings and tried our hand at snorkelling, but  mostly we just lounged by the pool.

***

On the evening of the second full day, the main street through fisherman’s village (the more boutique-y part of Bophut where our hotel was situated) was turned into one long market place, where, in addition to the usual shops, bars and restaurants, dozens of small stalls had been setup selling all sorts of local handicrafts, souvenirs, street food and even cocktails for half the prices (or less) than the bars were charging, which must have pleased them no end.

***

The next evening, we took a taxi over to a Chaweng, which is a bit of party resort town a few kilometres round the coast from us, where we drank cocktails at one beach restaurant, ate fish at another and chilled at a beach bar watching a fire show, where a couple of guys swung flaming torches round their heads while paper lanterns rose in to the night sky.

***

Marion and John flew home the following evening, leaving us on our own after an early dinner, following which, after collecting my suits and shirts, we stayed in and watched DVDs from the hotel’s extensive library.

***

Our last full day was spent buying a new suitcase to accommodate our new ‘cruise’ wardrobe – mine from the Island and Juli’s from Vietnam – packing all our bags and enjoying a last meal of lobster and fish in a waterside restaurant called the Happy Elephant, to which, one day, we hope very much to return.

Thank you, so much, Marion (& John) for finding and sharing this wonderful spot with us; in all our travels, there have been few places I’d revisit in preference to exploring somewhere new, but this is one.


In the next post, we get back on the truck and move on from Thailand to country number 25: Malaysia.

TTFN - N